Introduction to Canine Restraint and Handling

In this laboratory session, we will be learning several ways to approach and handle dogs in a veterinary setting. Above all, it is important that you remember to adapt your interaction with the dog based on its temperament and your environment. This will keep you and the dog as safe as possible.

Special thanks to Autumn, the wonder dog, for being the star of our videos.

Approaching a Dog

Adopt non-threatening body postures when initially approaching an unknown dog. This will increase your and the dog’s safety. This video gives an examples of  of a non-threatening approach, and contrasts it with a common but less safe approach:

Standing, Sitting, & Lateral Restraint Techniques

Applying a restraint technique to a moving animal often results in a struggle; start with a stationary dog:

• This can be done by walking the dog on a leash, then stopping and shortening the leash.
• As you begin to stop, shorten the leash by sliding your hand down towards the collar. This will slow the dog down and then allow them to stop next to you on the shortened leash.
• For some dogs – grasp the collar to keep the dog stationary, and this will also allow you to control the head. Caution as some dogs will react aggressively to grasping the collar.
• Standing beside the dog can be a less threatening posture. Avoid leaning over or standing in front of the dog as this can cause nervous or aggressive dogs to become more fearful.
• Gently brace your leg on one side of the dog to prevent movement in that direction.
• You can continue your restraint in a standing position, or transition to a sitting restraint as described below.

Standing Restraint:

• Start by standing beside the dog.
• Bend your knees to lower yourself to the dog’s level. Again, keep your back straight to avoid bending over the dog.
• One hand is used to hold the collar. Alternatively, you can wrap this arm gently around the neck region.
• Scoop your free hand/arm under the caudal abdomen or around the hind end to gain control of the hind end.
• If more restraint is needed, gain more control of the head and hind end using the techniques described below.
• Larger dogs may need 2 restrainers
• Standing restraint can allow for several different procedures to be performed (e.g., physical examination on a standing dog, injectable medication administration).
• Depending on the dog’s temperament, a muzzle might be applied to the standing dog.

Sitting restraint:

• Follow the steps above to allow you to start with a stationary dog.
• Some dogs might sit on command, or be lured into a sit with a treat.
• A gentle hand over the hind end of the dog will help signal most dogs to sit.
• Avoid pressing over the lumbar spine dorsal to the abdomen as this can cause pain and is ineffective. Instead, gentle pressure over the hind end at the level of the hips is more effective.
• From the sitting position, a restrainer can hold the head to allow another person to examine the dog or perform a procedure such as venipuncture.
• Additionally, a dog can be transitioned from the sit to sternal recumbency to allow for procedures such as cephalic vein intravenous access or catheterization.
• Procedures such as physical examination can be performed using sitting restraint, as well as venipuncture from cephalic or jugular veins.
• Having the dog sit against a wall will help limit backwards movement.
• For jugular venipuncture, the person restraining will position themselves behind the dog. Both hands can be used to hold the dog’s head stationary, and gently lift the chin up to expose the jugular area.
• The dog’s body is braced between the restrainer’s legs.
• Depending on the dog’s temperament, a muzzle may be indicated.

Another method (minimal restraint) to expose jugular area in the video below:

Head restraint:

• Begin at the point when you have a stationary dog.
• Bend your knees to lower yourself to the dog’s level; keep your back straight to avoid bending over the dog.
• A loose hold around the neck will still allow the dog’s head to move around and could allow a dog to bite.
• To more effectively limit head movement:
  • Scoop your arm around the dog’s neck. Your shoulder will be just behind the head on the side of the dog closest to your body, and your hand will be at the level of the base of the ear on the opposite side of the dog.
  • Turn your hand so that the palm faces outwards
  • Note that the dog’s head is close to the restrainer’s head. If the dog wiggles free, there is potential for biting. Constant communication between handlers is essential, particularly when someone is concerned that the dog might break restraint.

The following videos show an example of head restraint (from two different angles):

Hind end restraint (in combination with head restraint in a standing dog):

• A few technique variations can be used:
  • One method is to scoop your free hand/arm under the caudal abdomen while you are holding the collar (or another person is restraining the head in a large dog)
  • An alternative is to scoop the free hand and arm around the hind end, and rest your hand on the opposite side of the abdomen/thorax – see video link below (again while you are holding the collar or another person is providing head restraint).

Transitioning a dog into lateral recumbency for restraint

• Ensure that you support the dog’s body when transitioning to a lateral position. Flipping the dog without supporting the body will make the dog feel that it is falling. This can lead to the dog flailing around, making the dog uncomfortable and making restraint ineffective.
• Both restrainers stand on the same side of the dog. Each restrainer reaches over the dog’s body, then grasps the front or hind limb closest to them.
• While supporting the dog, the restrainers communicate to gently lift up on the legs and guide the dog into lateral recumbency (see the videos below)
• The restrainers then keep hold of the bottom limbs to keep the dog in lateral recumbency. The restrainer at the front positions their forelimb over the dog’s neck before grasps the bottom forelimb to provide control of the head.
• This position can be used for blood collection, to examine the ventral abdomen or limbs, and other procedures.

• Here are two links to videos from the Dr. Sophia Yin website demonstrating incorrect and correct ways to perform this technique:

Applying a muzzle

• If you have any concerns about your personal safety around a dog it is important that you use a muzzle.
• In addition, muzzles can also have other positive effects for the dog during handling. Muzzles allow the people in the room to relax, often resulting in the dog relaxing. Also, some dogs are distracted by the muzzle, and pay less attention to the handling and procedures. Finally, it is important that dogs do not learn that biting is a viable way to control their surroundings because it can be generalized to other situations.
• Many different types of muzzles are available, but fitted fabric muzzles are often used in veterinary settings.
• Prior to placing the muzzle it is important to adjust it to the approximate correct fit. If you have to take the muzzle off to adjust it, the dog may be more difficult during the next attempt to place it.
• There is no single best approach for placing a muzzle. In some situations you may need to ask someone to gently restrain the dog, and in other dogs that are highly fearful it may be better to proceed without any restraint.
• During placement of the muzzle, the dog should be controlled with a leash. Ideally either have the dog sit, or position them against the wall to restrict their ability to pull away from you.
• Stand to the side of the dog and start with the muzzle behind their head (holding each side of the muzzle by the buckle straps in either hand). Reach forward to place the muzzle over the nose. Snap the buckle behind the ears, and quickly adjust the fit so that it is snug.
• Dogs should not be left in muzzle that restricts their ability to open their mouths for extended periods of time. Do not leave the dog unattended with a muzzle on.

• If a dog routinely requires a muzzle for handling and procedures, suggest that the owner purchase their own and work with their dog to get them used to it.
• In brachycephalic dogs, it may not be possible to place a muzzle correctly. Alternatives in this situation include methods to restrict head movement such as using an e-collar, or placing a rolled up towel around the neck: